Boston is a city of diverse neighborhoods, many of which
were originally towns in their own right before being
assimilated into the city itself. These neighborhoods
still go by their original names and people will often
tell you they are from "JP" (Jamaica Plain)
or "Eastie" (East Boston) rather than from "Boston".
Alternatively, people from the suburbs will tell you they
are from Boston when in fact they are not, but live in
one of the nearby (or even outlying) suburbs. If in doubt,
you can look for "Resident Parking Only" signs
which will tell you what neighborhood you are in.
"Southie" is used for people from South Boston.
Be aware, this is different from the South End (which
is north of South Boston and west of Roxbury).
Each neighborhood and neighboring city has more specific
listings than what's on this page.
Among Boston's many neighborhoods, the historic areas
of Back Bay, Bay Village, Beacon Hill, Chinatown, Downtown,
the Fenway, the Financial District, Government Center,
the North End, and the South End comprise the area considered
"Boston Proper." It is here where most of the buildings
that make up the city's skyline are located.
Boston neighborhoods (aka):
- Allston and Brighton (Allston-Brighton, All-Bright)
- Back Bay
- Bay Village
- Beacon Hill
- Charlestown
- Chinatown
- Dorchester (Dot)
- Downtown
- East Boston (Eastie)
- Fenway-Kenmore (The Fens, Kenmore Square)
- Hyde Park
- Jamaica Plain (JP)
- Mattapan
- Mission Hill
- North End
- Roslindale (Rozzie)
- Roxbury
- South Boston (Southie)
- South End
- West End
- West Roxbury
Allston and Brighton are very small and abutting; you
will often hear it called Allston-Brighton. They are
connected to the rest of the city by a narrow neck of
land between the Charles River and the City of Brookline.
East Boston is on a peninsula across Boston Harbor
from the main bulk of the city. Logan Airport is in
East Boston. Several underwater tunnels connect East
Boston to the rest of the city.
Charlestown is across the Charles River, on the part
of the mainland where Cambridge and Somerville are located.
It's where you'll find the Bunker Hill Monument.
The South End, North End, South Boston, and the West
End are not the neighborhoods farthest in these respective
directions.
The Back Bay is one of the few neighborhoods with a
grid-like street network. It is so named because it
used to be an actual bay (like with water) until the
city made an enormous landfill project ending in 1862.
It is now one of the higher-rent neighborhoods in the
city. The cross-streets are named in alphabetical order
from towns in England (and New England) from east starting
at the Public Gardens and heading west to Kenmore: Arlington,
Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, Exeter, Fairfield, Gloucester
(pronounced gloster), and Hereford. After Hereford is
Massachusetts Avenue (or Mass. Ave, as it is commonly
known) and then Charlesgate, which marks the boundary
of Back Bay. (Trivia fact: the alphabetical streets
continue on the far side of Massachusetts Avenue in
the Fenway neighborhood, with Ipswich, Jersey, and Kilmarnock
-- but at that point, it's no longer a grid.)
There are also several "districts" you might hear mentioned.
"Districts" are generally areas of common interest located
within a larger neighborhood:
- Financial District (downtown)
- Leather District (downtown)
- SoWa District (South of Washington, South End)
- Theatre District (between Chinatown and Bay Village)
- Waterfront District (South Boston)
- Ladder District (newer phrase for Downtown Crossing)
| When
to visit |
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As many know, the weather is New England is very unpredictable
and sees the some of the coldest winters and most uncomfortable
summers in the country.
Overall, the spring is nice, but it's hit or miss in
terms of weather. Sometimes the warm weather starts
late, sometimes it starts early, and sometimes it's
off and on until late June.
The early fall is most always very comfortable, and
predictable. Though the days are shorter, the comfortably
warm weather will often persist into the evenings, through
September. Come October the days are cooler, but perfect
for spending time outside and walking the city. November
is hit or miss, but expect it to be cold.
While a day of snowfall in New England can be pretty,
the winter is otherwise bitterly cold and generally
a mess to get around in. Roads become unsafe, sidewalks
covered in messy slush, flight delays and cancellations,
and all of the other unpleasantness that one associates
with snow.
Early summer tends to be nice, but you don't know when
that will be year to year. In that time however, the
temperature will be perfect, and there will be no humidity.
The remainder of summer tends to be very warm with uncomfortably
high humidity. Walking around Boston in this weather
can be very uncomfortable. You'll be best off taking
a cab, bus, or The T.
American jurist Oliver Wendell Holmes once called Boston
"the hub of the solar system", but common usage
has expanded to the now-current Hub of the Universe. This
half-serious term is all you need to know to understand
Boston's complicated self-image. Vastly important in American
history, and for centuries the seat of the USA's social
elite, Boston lost prominence in the early twentieth century,
largely to the cities of New York, Chicago, Los Angeles,
and San Francisco. Over the past two decades, Boston has
regained political, cultural, and economic importance.
Is it the center of everything? Don't expect a straight
answer from a wry Bostonian.
The city was founded in 1630 by members of the Massachusetts
colony, Puritan religious dissidents who had fled England
to find freedom in the New World. It rapidly assumed
a leading role in the fledgling New England region,
with a booming economy based on trade with the Caribbean
and Europe. The devastating Fire of 1760 destroyed much
of the town, but within a few years the city had bounced
back.
Boston was the center of America's revolutionary activity
during the Colonial period; several of the first Revolutionary
War skirmishes were fought there, including the Boston
Massacre, Boston Tea Party, and the Battle of Bunker
Hill; the battles of Lexington and Concord were fought
nearby. The residents' ardent support of independence
earned the city the nickname The Cradle of Liberty.
Throughout the 19th century, Boston continued to grow
rapidly, assimilating outlying towns into the metropolitan
core. Its importance in American culture was inestimable,
and its economic and literary elite, the so-called Boston
Brahmins assumed the mantle of aristocracy in the United
States. Harvard College in nearby Cambridge became,
and in many ways remains, America's premier center of
learning.
At the same time, the city's working class swelled
with immigrants from Europe. The huge Irish influx made
Boston one of the most important Irish cities in the
world -- in or out of Ireland. Gradually the Irish laborer
population climbed into city's upper class, evidenced
no better than by the continued importance of the Kennedy
family in national politics.
From the early twentieth century until the 1970s, Boston's
importance on the national stage waned. Cities in what
was once the frontier, like Chicago, San Francisco,
and later Los Angeles, shifted the nation's center of
gravity away from liberty's cradle. In the past two
decades, Boston's importance and influence has increased,
due to growth in higher education, health care, high
technology, and financial services. It remains America's
higher educational center--during the school year, one
in five Bostonians is a univerity student.
Boston's nicknames include "Beantown", "The
Hub" (shortened from Oliver Wendell Holmes' phrase
'The Hub of the Universe'), "The City of Higher
Learning" (due to the plethora of universities
and colleges in the Boston area) and - particularly
in the 19th century - "The Athens of America,"
on account of its great cultural and intellectual influence.
| Get
in |
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By plane
From Logan: The MBTA Blue line is reasonably convenient
and inexpensive provided that you are not carrying much
luggage. Several free Massport shuttles provide connectivity
to rail, water transit, and parking. For the Blue Line,
look for the one with the electronic sign that says
"SUBWAY". The fare is $1.25, and exact change is not
needed. The last Blue Line train leaves the airport
shortly after about 12:30 AM. If you arrive later than
that you'll need to take a cab or have someone pick
you up.
The Airport station has been recently renovated and
is more uplifting, but a poor job was done for the luggage
sliders to help you get through the turnstiles. Change
at Government Center for Green Line trains and at State
Street for Orange Line trains. If you need a red line
train, you could to take a Green Line train from Government
Center to Park Street, but the Silver Line (see below)
is a better bet.
The shiny new Silver Line began service to Logan airport
in June 2005. The large, low-floor articulated bus stops
at each terminal roughly every 10 minutes on weekdays
and every 15 minutes on weekends. From the airport the
bus travels through the occasionally-clogged Ted Williams
Tunnel, and then through a dedicated bus tunnel to an
underground stop at South Station. Convenient transfers
are available to the Red Line, westbound/southbound
commuter rail trains, and Amtrak trains. The fare is
$1.25, exact change only.
Cabs are cheaper than in many other cities due to fare
controls, and also because of the close distance of
the airport. It would be about $20 for fares to Boston,
and less if you are staying downtown in the financial
district.
Driving to Logan from the north, take the Callahan
Tunnel; from the south or the west, take the Ted Williams
Tunnel. Routes are well marked, and there is no toll
in this direction. Driving from the airport to downtown
Boston or to points north, including Interstate 93 northbound,
take the Sumner Tunnel; for points south and west, including
Interstate 93 southbound & Interstate 90, take the
Ted Williams Tunnel. There is a $3 toll for either tunnel.
Routes are well marked, but the airport road system
is complex... read the signs carefully and be sure you're
in the correct lane, or you may be forced to swerve
across several lanes of traffic to catch an unexpected
off-ramp.
By train
Amtrak arrives at South Station, which intersects with
the MBTA Red Line. You can take the Amtrak Northeast
Corridor or Acela Express from South Station all the
way to DC and beyond. Average Acela time from Boston
to Philadelphia is about 5 hours, New York City in 3.
Amtrak also uses North Station at the Fleet Center
for their Downeaster service to Haverhill, Peabody,
and Maine.
If you have a first class Acela ticket, you may use
the Amtrak Metropolitan Lounge in South Station. it
is historic and renovated. There is no lounge at Back
Bay Station. You may use Quik Track machines to buy
your ticket without standing in line, or to pick up
tickets you have reserved online.
Some trains also stop at the Back Bay Station (MBTA
Orange Line).
All trains stop at Back Bay station, unless you are
taking the Downeaster service from Maine. This is a
convenient stop if you are staying in Copley Square.
Arriving by train has the advantage of putting you
within easy reach of most downtown destinations by public
transit.
By bus
- The Boston Deluxe ,
connecting Boston with New York and Hartford.
- The Fung
Wah ,
connecting Boston's Chinatown neighboorhood with New
York's Chinatown.
Greyhound and Peter Pan Bus also serve many cities
from South Station but are generally more expencive
than the Chinatown busses, with Greyhound and PPB averaging
$30 to New York. The Chinatown buses (AKA Dragon Busses)
now use South Station also and serve Hartford, Connecticut
and New York City. Fares are competitive, but not as
low as they once were (Fung Wah was $10 each way, is
now $15. Some significantly lower quality Chinatown
busses average $12.50 one way).
By car Boston
has two major highways entering it, I-93 and I-90 (the
Massachusetts Turnpike, or "Mass Pike", or "Pike").
I-93 enters the city from the north and the south; the
Pike enters Boston from the west. The Mass Pike is a
toll road - expect to pay $1.00 to enter the city via
the Pike, apart from the tolls charged when arriving
at the I-90 / I-95 interchange outside the city. There
are minor roads, of course, that enter Boston as well,
including Route 9 (Old Worcester Turnpike), Route 2,
and US 1. Another major highway, I-95 (also known as
Route 128) encircles the Boston area.
There are many car rental places around Boston, but
one of the most unique is Zipcar ,
an hourly car rental service. If you don't plan to do
much driving, this may be an economical alternative
to owning a car. If you want to use Zipcar, you should
try signing up in advance. It is not instantaneous.
Rental fees and taxes differ between Boston and Cambridge,
but the rental agencies at Logan Airport (in East Boston)
are still usually less expensive and have a greater
fleet of cars available.
The Massachusetts Turnpike (Interstate 90) is a toll
road, as is the Sumner Tunnel (coming from the airport
only), the Ted Williams Tunnel, and the Tobin Bridge
(southbound/from the North Shore only).
If driving on a major highway during rush hour, do
not be surprised to see cars driving in the breakdown
lane on the shoulder. This is permitted in certain areas,
at certain times, as indicated by signs along the road.
Parking
If you're looking for a place to park in the city,
the Boston Common Garage is a good choice. There are
three levels of parking under The Commons. The garage
is very clean and its central location makes it a good
starting point for a day trip in the city. To get in
and out of the garage, there are four pavillions on
The Commons; each has stairs and an elevator. Once out
of the garage, the Park Street and Boylston Street subway
stops are only a two or three minute walk away.
Daily rates and fees:
- Up to 1 hr: $6
- Up to 2 hrs: $11
- Up to 3 hrs: $16
- Up to 9 hrs: $18
- Up to 12 hrs: $19
- 24-hour maximum charge: $25
Evening Rate
- Enter the Garage after 4 PM and exit before 10 AM:
$10
Weekend Rate
- Enter after 6 AM on Saturday or Sunday and exit
by 10 AM the next morning: $10
- Enter after 6 AM Saturday and exit by 10 AM on Monday:
$20
- Please note, all rates are subject to change.
Overnight monthly pass (enter the Garage after 4 PM
and exit by 10 AM the next business day): $110 per month
| Get
around |
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Navigation on city streets is very hard if you're not
familiar with the area. Driving is to be avoided if
possible. There are many one-way streets, usually arranged
haphazardly and poorly marked for drivers. Due to constant
construction, the correct directions one day could be
entirely wrong the next. Parking is expensive, and traffic
can be slow - watch out for lots of double-parked vehicles.
Drivers are also notorious for being aggressive, as
are pedestrians and bicyclists, somewhat. Especially
avoid driving during rush hour on weekdays; streets
and highways become extremely crowded. For the most
part, highways are clear outside of rush hour. The recent
opening of the Central Artery Tunnel means that traffic
on I-93 through downtown and to the airport via the
Ted Williams Tunnel (I-90) are particularly quick, though
confusingly signed.
For most tourist destinations in Boston and Cambridge,
it's usually advisable to leave your car behind and
take the subway. You'll do a bit more walking, but that
will give you a chance to see the sights. However, much
of the parking in Boston and surrounding towns is limited
to neighborhood residents, who have stickers identifying
their cars. You should therefore check whether parking
on a particular street is open to you, and consider
using metered parking or public or private lots.
Visit http://www.smartraveler.com/
for semi-real-time updates about traffic.
Public transit
Public transit in Boston is generally adequate and
relatively inexpensive, and can take you directly to
most points of interest. A single public transit agency
serves the Boston Metro area, the Massachusetts Bay
Transit Authority ("MBTA", or "the T" for short). For
complete schedules, maps, and other information, see
their official website at http://www.mbta.com/
.
The T consists of several components: subway, bus,
water shuttles, and commuter rail. The subway is composed
of four color-coded light rail lines: orange, red, blue,
and green. The Red and Orange lines travel generally
north-south; the Blue and Green lines travel generally
east-west. The Green Line splits into four branches
going west and are known as the B, C, D and E lines;
the Red Line splits in two directions going south and
are known as the Braintree and Ashmont branches, the
latter of which connects to a streetcar line to Mattapan.
Going west on the Green Line, the E line branches off
at Copley Square station, the other three split at Kenmore
Square station. Going south, the Red Line splits at
JFK/UMass station. Subway maps usually also include
the Commuter Rail (long-distance heavy rail) which is
color-coded purple, and the Silver Line, a Bus Rapid
Transit (BRT) line currently under expansion. Collectively,
the light rail and Silver Lines are known as Rapid Transit,
and they all converge downtown.
The subway system is slightly confusing in that directions
are often marked "inbound" and "outbound", rather than
with a destination. "Inbound" means "into the center
of Boston", where all four lines converge at four stops:
State (Blue and Orange), Park Street (Red and Green),
Government Center (Blue and Green), and Downtown Crossing
(Orange and Red). "Outbound" means "away from the center
of Boston". Of course, once one is in the center,
the lines may indicate the actual destination of the
trains, because all directions are "outbound". Nevertheless,
note that the four stations listed above surround the
center; for example, travel from Park Street to Government
Center on the Green Line would be Inbound. One of the
better ways to determine which way to go is to note
what the last stop of the train is (usually denoted
on the subway platform maps). For example, a train going
outbound to Alewife from Downtown Crossing, is goin
to stop at all stops in between these two stations.
Please see link: http://www.mbta.com/traveling_t/schedules_subway_redline.asp
Note that subway and light rail service generally stops
between midnight and 5am.
Unlimited-ride subway and bus passes are available
from the T. If you're going to be riding a lot around
town, these are worth investigating. See http://www.mbta.com/traveling_t/passes_special.asp#visitorpass
for complete fare information on tourist passes. You
should be aware that the Visitor pass is $35 for 7 days,
whilst the Combo pass is just $16.50 for 7 days, and
they are more or less the same. The Combo pass is the
one to get.
The cost of a single ride on the T is $1.25. Buy a
token from the booth to go through the turnstiles. This
will get you to most destinations, although if you are
going to the outskirts of Boston (specifically, Newton
or Braintree), an extra charge may apply. You should
get two tokens if you are planning a return trip as
there can sometimes be long lines at the token booth.
Parking at the Alewife station on the Red line is ample
but will cost you $4.50 no matter when you come and
go (for each 24 hour period).
Imporant note: Many subway stations do not accept
credit cards and don't have ATMs, so bring cash. Between
the fall of 2005 and 2006, the MBTA will be launching
the Charlie Card and Charlie Ticket service that will
replace the tokens. You'll be able to use a credit card
for these.
By foot
Boston is a very compact city, given that walking was
the predominant form of transportation for most of the
city's history. Most of the major attractions can be
visited on foot, although the climate is rather cold
from December to April.
Within intersections (or at any convenient point along
the street), mob rule is generally observed, and pedestrians
rarely wait for the "walk" signal. Be careful when crossing
the streets.
| See |
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Museums
- Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 465 Huntington
Ave. (MFA Station, Green E Line), 617-267-9300.
http://www.mfa.org/ -
(Free for high-school students practically all-year
round; entrance fees are optional on wednesdays.)
- Institute of Contemporary Art 955 Boylston
St (Hynes/ICA Station, Green B, C, or D line).
617-266-5152 http://www.icaboston.org/
- Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum 280 The Fenway
(MFA Station, Green E Line). 617-566-1401 http://www.gardnermuseum.org/
- John F. Kennedy Library and Museum Columbia
Point, Dorchester (JFK/UMass Station, Any Red Line).
http://www.cs.umb.edu/jfklibrary/
- Museum of Science Science Park (Science
Park Station, Any Green Line), 617-723-2500.http://www.mos.org/
- Boston Children's Museum 300 Congress Street,
Boston. (Downtown.) For directions and more info,
see: http://www.bostonkids.org/
- New England Aquarium Central Wharf, Boston.
(Blue Line to Aquarium) Great fun for kids
of all ages. 617-973-5200 http://www.neaq.org/
Events
- March: St. Patrick's Day The Sunday after
March 17th is the day of the parade. Despite the fact
that Boston has one of the highest Irish populations
outside of Ireland, March 17th is not celebrated as
St. Patrick's Day publicly, but rather as Evacuation
Day, a local holiday marking the expulsion of British
troops from the city in 1776 coincidentally on March
17th.
http://www.saintpatricksdayparade.com/boston/boston.htm
- Third Monday in April: Boston Marathon The
oldest marathon in the US, commemorating Paul Revere's
ride in 1775. The surrounding Patriot's Day festivities
celebrate the start of the American Revolution in
that year with the battles of Lexington and Concord
(suburbs of Boston). The race runs from Hopkinton
to the finish line in Copley Square. Parts of Commonwealth
Avenue outbound from there and surrounding streets
are closed for the race. http://www.bostonmarathon.com/
- June: Boston Pride The second-largest event
in the city after the Fourth of July. Boston's LBGT
community - and everyone else - comes out for a fabulous
parade from Copley Square, through the South End,
to Boston Common. Many other social events are scheduled
around this weekend. http://www.bostonpride.org/
- The Fourth of July: Independence Day Boston's
Independence Day celebration. Started by Arthur Fiedler
and philanthropist David Mugar. The Boston Pops plays
to standing-room-only crowds on the Charles River
Esplanade, followed by fireworks just after dusk.
Televised nationally. Get there a few hours before
dark if you want a good seat (or any seat) on the
Esplanade or on the Memorial Drive side in Cambridge.
It's an excellent opportunity for a picnic. Parts
of Storrow Drive in Boston, Memorial Drive in Cambridge,
and Massachusetts Avenue on and near the Harvard Bridge
are closed due to extremely heavy pedestrian traffic.
Note that the roads and public transit are heavily
congested after the fireworks display. http://www.july4th.org/
- Late August: The Feast of St. Anthony. The
biggest of several Feasts in the North End. This one
includes lots of food vendors, games, music, and a
parade on Hanover Street and environs. (If I'm not
mistaken, they have also had fireworks on the waterfront
in the past.) http://www.stanthonysfeast.com/
- December 31/January 1: First Night Boston's
New Year's Eve celebration, a city-wide arts and culture
event. The events begin at about 4PM on New Year's
Eve, and culminate in fireworks on the waterfront.
Dress warmly. http://www.firstnight.org/
- Last Friday of every month: "Critical Mass."
Join hundreds of Bostonians on a bike ride throughout
Boston. The event begins at 5:30 pm, Copley Square.
For more info: http://www.bostoncriticalmass.org/
| Do |
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- Boston Common and Public Garden A must-see
for all visitors during the warmer months. Accessible
from Park Street (Green, Red Lines), Boylston (Green
Line), and Arlington (Green Line), and a short walk
from any other downtown station. Ride the famous Swan Boats
and generally enjoy the park with its shady trees,
fountains, statues, sidewalk vendors, and greenery.
Visit the "Cheers" bar. A great starting point for
visitors interested in local historical sights, or
on your way to Downtown Crossing or the Back Bay.
Very nice foliage in the fall. Technically, the part
west of Charles St. is the Public Garden, and the
eastern part is Boston Common.
- Community Boating For kids between ages 10
and 18, membership is only $1 for the entire summer.
Membership includes all sorts of sailing lessons (sailing,
windsurfing, kayaking, etc.) along with other benefits.
Each class takes a couple of days. Located at the
Charles/MGH stop on the Redline. Visit http://www.community-boating.org/
- Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market, downtown
Boston. (Green Line to Government Center, or
Blue Line to Aquarium, or Orange Line or
Blue Line to State) Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market,
two of Boston's oldest marketplaces, contain a great
set of mainly tourist-oriented shops and eateries.
Faneuil Hall also has a historic meeting hall in its
upper levels, and is just down the street from the
Old State House.
- Copley Square. (Green Line to Copley or
Orange Line to Back Bay) Take a Duck Tour, enjoy
the fountains, visit the top of the nearby Prudential
building, see the Boston Public Library, or go shopping
along Newbury Street.
- Fenway Park The home of the Boston Red Sox.
Take a B, C, or D Green Line train to Kenmore Station.
You'll also be able to see the famous Citgo Sign.
There are a few good restaurants in the Square. The
local architecture is quite attractive. A short walk
to the East is the grassy boulevard of Commonwealth
Avenue, and to the West is Boston University, which
has some interesting landmark structures.
- Boston Pops Orchestra (Green Line E train
to Symphony) The Pops perform programs of both
classical and popular music, consistently pleasing
audiences. Tickets can be had inexpensively, but check
for availability beforehand.
- Minuteman Bikeway (Red Line to Davis or
Alewife). One of the most heavily used rail trails
in the United States, this eleven mile paved path
is popular with walkers, cyclists, and in-line skaters.
The route closely follows that taken at the beginning
of the Revolutionary War.
The biggest shopping areas in the inner Metro are the
indoor malls in Cambridge and the Back Bay. Both have
ample parking and a wide variety of restaurants, from
fast food to classy sit-down.
The Cambridgeside Galleria is accessible by T from
Lechmere Station (Take the Green Line D or E or one
of many buses, cross under the tracks, then go straight
ahead) or by free shuttle ("The Wave") from just outside
the Kendall/MIT station on the Red Line. Restaurants
include the Cheesecake Factory and a food court; shopping
includes a convenience store, Best Buy, department stores,
lots of clothes, bookstores, and everything else, at
mainstream retail prices.
Prudential Center is accessible on the Green Line from
Hynes Convention Center/ICA/Auditorium (B/C/D), Prudential
(E), and Copley (all branches).
Copley Place connects with Prudential Center via an
overhead pedestrian walkway. It houses lots of upscale
shopping (including Nieman Marcus and Tiffany's), restaurants,
and connects with several large hotels. Accessible via
Copley (all Green Line branches) and Back Bay (Orange
Line, some Commuter Rail lines) Stations.
More local color can be experienced outdoors at any
of several popular commercial areas:
Newbury Street: Back Bay, Boston. A wonderfully
dense avenue colored by historic brownstones and lots
of shops and restaurants. Extremely expensive near Boston
Common, but gradually becoming more affordable as you
move toward Massachusetts Avenue. One block north from
Boylston Street (Arlington, Copley, Hynes Convention
Center/ICA stops on the Green Line) which is similar
but less so. Traffic can be very slow on Newbury Street
itself; take parallel streets unless you have time to
see the sights from your car.
Downtown Crossing: Downtown Boston. It is obligatory
to visit the world-famous Filene's Basement. Unlike
most other stores of the same name, this flagship outlet
is actually underground. Bargain Alley has the distinctive
feature of the Automatic Markdown plan - every week,
the items in this area get 25% cheaper, until they are
either sold or donated to charity. Many excellent deals
can be found on merchandise floating down from the larger
department store upstairs. The aisles here are narrow,
and the store is usually busy, so avoid bringing lots
of shopping bags in by stopping here first. The rest
of Downtown Crossing features large Macy's and Borders,
music stores, souvenirs, general retail, and lots of
street vendors and quick food. Accessible from Downtown
Crossing (Red and Orange Lines) or a short walk from
any other downtown T stop such as Park Street (Red and
Green Lines). An underground passage exists for free
transfers between Park Street and Downtown Crossing
stations, but there is shopping above-ground on Park
Street as well.
Harvard Square: Cambridge. Take a tour of the
University and the Yard, visit the historic cemetery,
shop around. Several excellent bookstores, plenty of
restaurants and cafes. See the famous chess tables outside
Au Bon Pain where a scene in Good Will Hunting was filmed.
Walk past the offices of Dewey, Cheatem & Howe,
and say hello to the punks. A short walk down to the
scenic Charles River. Street musicians often play near
the famous Out of Town News. For a good burger stop
in a Bartley's, a Harvard landmark. For a fantastic
margarita and cheap Mexican food, be sure to hit up
the Border Cafe. Accessible from Harvard Station (Red
Line, many buses).
Coolidge Corner: Brookline. A little less urban,
more like your local village shops and restaurants.
The Coolidge Corner Theater is known for showing interesting
independent and art house films. Take the C Branch of
the Green Line. Beacon Street has interesting shops
along most of its length. One can also walk north from
Coolidge Corner along Harvard Ave. towards Allston-Brighton
(and the B Branch of the Green Line) for additional
shopping and dining.
Boston has excellent seafood from the nearby New England
coast. Local specialties include baked beans, cod, and
clam chowder. Another local specialty is ice cream.
A variety of excellent ethnic restaurants can be found
in Chinatown and the North End (Italian).
The best sit-down restaurants can be quite crowded
in the evenings on weekends. Unless you have a reservation,
be prepared to wait anywhere from a few minutes to an
hour, depending on how refined your tastes are.
If you are indecisive, visit one of the outdoor commercial
areas listed in the previous section (or the Prudential)
and walk around until you find something that sounds
tasty and in your price range.
Italian
The North End is full of Italian eateries, and it's
certain that you'll find something here to your liking.
Take the Green or Orange Lines to the Haymarket T, follow
the pedestrian passageway through the Big Dig, and then
follow the signs to Hanover Street, the main commercial
thoroughfare. Most of the good restaurants are on this
street or on side streets. While you're here, may we
recommend:
- Mike's Pastry, 300 Hanover St, Boston. Wherever
you eat in the North End, do not order dessert.
Instead, hop on down to Mike's for the Western Hemisphere's
best cannolis. (Cannolis are an Italian pastry dessert
filled with a wonderful sweet cheese.) We kid you
not - check out the pictures on the walls, where you'll
see former Presidents of the United States shaking
hands with the store's owners. There's also a rich
selection of other deserts available, and a small
number of tables for sit-down service. Mike's can
get quite busy, especially at night on the weekends.
But don't worry; the line moves quickly and the staff
will quickly package your selection for you take elsewhere
to enjoy. (You'll probably be able to find Mike's
just by following the trail of people carrying their
trademark string-tied white boxes.) 617-742-3050
- Pizzeria Regina, 11 1/2 Thacher St., Boston.
Not on Hanover Street and a little hard to find (bring
a map) and a bit crowded on weekends, but well worth
it. This is where the locals go to get their pizza.
Expect to wait outside in line duting peak hours.
Also expect a rather gruff staff. No credit cards
accepted - cash only. 617-227-0765. There's also a
fast-food style booth at Faneuil Hall Marketplace,
though it's not quite the same quality as the main
location.
- Woody's Grill and Tap, 58 Hemenway St. in
the Back Bay. For a great pizza experience, staff,
and food quality, try Woody's. Go here for reviews:
- Al Dente Ristorante, 109 Salem St., Boston.
This Italian gem has an amazing selection. Choose
your pasta type (about a dozen) and then choose your
sauce (also about a dozen). For a truly excellent
combo, try one of their homemade pastas with a the
tangy vodka sauce. Lap the extra sauce down with the
fresh bread and clear your pallet with some nice cold
Peroni beer.
- Osteria Rustico, 85 Canal St., Boston. Just
outside of the North End, near the Fleetcenter, lies
this tiny gem of a restaurant. There are only 6 tables
and the menu is not very extensive, however the exceptional
food makes up for this. Always open for lunch and
only open for dinner when events are at the Fleet,
this is a stop to be sure to visit. For lunch, be
sure to try the Casalinga with grilled chicken and
for dinner, the seafood pasta is out of this world.
Outside the North End:
- Vinnie Testas. Extremely good (one opinion)
/ ordinary (another) / terrible (reality) Italian
food in extremely large quantities, for cheap. Bring
a friend or five to help you eat. Several New England
locations; in the Boston metro area are: Back Bay
- 867 Boylston Street, Boston, 617-262-6699 (take
the Green Line to Hynes Convention Center/Auditorium
or Copley Square) and 1700 Beacon Street, Brookline,
617-277-3400 (take the C Branch of the Green Line
to Tappan St.)
Budget
- Bob the Chef's, 604 Columbus Ave., Boston
617-536-6204. Inexpensive Southern/Cajun food in the
South End. Very friendly, large portions, live jazz
Thurs-Sun.
- South Street Diner, 178 Kneeland Street,
Boston (near South Station), 617-350-0028.
A great 50s-style, 24-hour diner.
- Durgin-Park, Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Famous
for their service with attitude. Wholesome New England
fare, especially prime rib, lobster. 617-227-2038.
This place does have highly-rated meals, but can range
from about $8 for a burger, to up to $25-40 for bigger
meals (steak/lobster). Expect to pay at least $20
per person for dinner (not exactly budget...)
- Silvertone Bar and Brill, 69 Bromfield St.
A hip afterwork hangout with very good "new American"
food and the best macaroni and cheese in town, right
near Boston Common. 617-338-7887
Seafood
- Legal Seafood, multiple locations, including
at Kendall/MIT (Red Line) and the Prudential Center
mall. Legal Seafood is a Boston original - well, technically
Cambridge, since it started as a fish market in Inman
Square, Cambridge. Legal Seafood is known for its
excellent, fresh fish, New England Clam Chowder, and
curt, abrupt service. Expect to pay between $25-$30/person
at dinner.
- Barking Crab, 88 Sleeper Street. MBTA: Red
line to South Station. $20-30 per person. Excellent
seafood and American cuisine. Outdoor dining in a
clam shack atmosphere, overlooks Boston Harbor and
view of downtown. Kid friendly. Live music daily.
- Union Oyster House, 41 Union Street. MBTA:
Green or Blue Line to Government center. $30-50 per
person, but also delicious and much cheaper to eat
in the bar section. Oldest continually operating restaurant
in the US. Comfortable atmosphere. A favorite of John
F. Kennedy.
- Summer Shack Restaurant, this place has WONDERFUL
selections of seafood, which change on a daily basis.
I have always had better experiences at this place
than some of the bigger names- Legal, Union Oyster.
The Summer Shack has a rotating selection of oysters
and clams, and always have fresh lobsters for boiling
or grilling on a wood flame. In addition, their fried
seafood (not the most glamorous, I know) is a great
pick if you are looking for the best in that category.
You can expect to pay anywhere from $15-$40 per person
for dinner because of the large range in price of
all dishes. Try their raspberry mojitos, or check
out Bukowski's next door for any of their 100+ beers.
Location: 50 Dalton Street in the Back Bay, across
from the Sheraton Hotel entrance and the Hynes Auditorium.
617-867-9955
Thai
- Rod Dee two locations Coolidge Corner and
the Fenway. Amazing Thai Food, amazing value. Walking
by it, you might not be impressed, but when you eat
there you will know why there are so many Zagat stickers
on the door.
Korean & Japanese
- Apollo Grille, 84 Harrison Ave, +1 617-423-3888,
open until 4 AM. Located in Chinatown, stop by for
some authentic Korean and/or Japanese cuisine. The
sushi selection is vast, and they're all great. Comfortable
environment, open late, friendly service, and relatively
inexpensive. A great place to enjoy a relaxing meal.
Vegetarian
- Buddha's Delight two locations- Chinatown
and Buddha's Delight Too at Coolidge Corner; they
serve Vietnamese food with tofu, fake chicken, fake
beef, fake duck...it's actually all quite good. their
spring rolls are very good; as is their taro. A complete
vegan restaurant
- Grasshopper in Union Square in Allston -
another strictly vegan Asian restaurant with a definite
Vietnamese influence. Very delicious and (arguably)
better than Buddha's Delight. Lunch specials under
$6, dinner between $7 - $14 for entrees.
Splurge
- Abe and Louie's, 793 Boylston Street, +1
617-536-6300. Su-Th 11:30AM-11PM, Fr-Sa 11:30AM-12PM.
A happening steakhouse with some of the best cuts
in town. Make sure to get reservations or come in
on off hours, however.
- Fugakyu, Beacon Street, Brookline (Coolidge
Corner). Some of the best sushi in town. It truly
lives up to the meaning of its name, "house of exquisite
excellence." Don't worry about bringing people who
don't like sushi, as they have an extensive menu (many
pages) of cooked food and appetizers including shabu-shabu,
tempura, katsu, sukiyaki, teriyaki, along with plenty
of vegetarian options. There are many private dining
rooms for 4 to 20 people that can be requested at
the door for smaller parties - reservations are only
made for larger groups, along with a large number
of open-floor tables.
- Top of the Hub, Prudential Center, Boston.
Dine in luxury at the top of the Prudential Building,
the second tallest building in the city. Light jazz,
excellent food, and outrageous prices accompany a
view of the city and everything around. On a clear
day, you can see Maine and Cape Cod. Expect to pay
$40/person, $60-80 with drinks at dinner.
- Elephant Walk, Beacon Street, Brookline.
For a slightly different menu combination, The Elephant
Walk has a combined French and Cambodian menu. The
setting is elegant enough for a special occasion,
but intimate enough for a date. Expect about $30-40
per person before drinks.
- Morton's Steakhouse Located near the Hynes
Convention Center and Newbury Street. A conservative
dinner for two without drinks will run you about $150,
not including tax and gratuity.
| Drink |
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With a large Irish population, Boston has a number
of very good Irish pubs. Many tourists look for an authentic
"Boston Irish Pub". A good rule of thumb is if the establishment
has a neon shamrock in the window, it is not an authentic
Irish pub.
- Doyle's Cafe, Washington Street (Jamaica
Plain). An Irish pub.
- The Burren, Davis Square (Somerville).
An Irish pub once said to pour more Guinness than
any other in North America.
- J.J. Foley's, Downtown Crossing (Boston).
Hard-drinking Irish bar for the downtown crowd.
- The Black Rose, Fanueil Hall Marketplace
(Boston). Often filled with tourists on the
weekends due to its location, but a favorite of the
locals as well.
- Fire and Ice, Berkeley Street (Boston).
A great place to have fancy blended drinks and appetizers,
or you go upstairs and have some delicious grill.
You get to pick your own food and sauces, and they
cook it right in front of you. $16.95, all you can
eat. Definately a fun place to go on Saturday night.
Find
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| Sleep |
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Boston is not known for its cheap hotels. Budget internet
sites are almost essential for finding an affordable and
comfortable hotel downtown. Budget
The hostel on Hemenway Street.
Mid-range
- Braintree Hotel The Hampton Inn-Boston/Braintree is located
just 10 miles south of downtown Boston and Logan International
Airport, 1 mile from South Shore Plaza, 4 miles from
Quincy Adams' Homestead, 7 miles from the JFK Memorial
Museum, 12 miles from Fenway Park, 15 miles from Gillette
Stadium and across the street from F-1 Boston. Within
1 mile you can dine at several restaurants, including
Joe's American Bar & Grill, Legal Seafood, 99
Restaurant and Pizzeria Uno. Indoor pool and whirlpool,
exercise room, business center, guest laundry facility,
express checkout, and 2 meeting rooms. Each guest
room is equipped with dataport, on demand pay-per-view
and Nintendo, iron/ironing board, coffeemaker, hairdryer,
and TV with cable. Amenities include a complimentary
hot breakfast buffet, free local and toll free phone
calls, free wireless internet and complimentary shuttle
service within a 4 mile radius of hotel. Valet service
and rollaway beds are available for a nominal fee.
Pets are also allowed. Kids stay free.
- Doubletree Guest Suites, Boston This hotel is about a 5-10 minute free shuttle
ride into Copley Square and the Back Bay (and Fenway
Park) and about 20 minutes by public transport. Staying
here was great, the service was wonderful, and they
are located right on the Charles River, across from
Central Square in Cambridge. I have put several people
in this hotel who have visited our office in Boston,
and have only gotten good feedback. 400 Soldiers Field
Road, Boston, Massachusetts, United States 02134-1893
Tel: +1-617-783-0090 Fax: +1-617-783-0897
Splurge
- Omni Parker House Hotel If you want to surround yourself in Boston
history and opulence in the heart of Downtown Boston.
- Intercontinental Boston, 500 Atlantic Ave.
(On the Waterfront), phone number (617) 747-1000).
Opening Mid-2006. The Intercontinental Boston Hotel,
a new symbol of elegance and luxury on the Boston
Waterfront. The 424 guest rooms & suites of this
5 star hotel will be conveniently located close to
the Boston Commons, Faneuil Hall, Quincy Market, North
End, Logan Airport, Boston Convention Center and other
downtown Boston attractions.
Nine Zero is trendy, fun, and not the usual hotel.
For a real splurge stay in the Cloud Nine Suite with
truly awesome views of Boston Common. The clue that
you'll have a fabulous time is the message at the front
door. It simply says: RELAX |