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The summer is reported to be the worst time to visit:
it's very hot, the canals stink (in the most literal
sense), there are infestations of flies, and there are
even more tourists than usual. Spring and fall are probably
best, a compromise between temperature (expect 5-15C
in March) and the tourist load.
"Acqua Alta" has become a fact of life in Venice. The
lagoon water level occasionally rises above the level
of the plazas and streets, flooding them. This will
happen several times a year, usually in the colder months,
and usually lasts a couple hours. You'll see raised
walkways in side alleys ready to be pulled out when
acqua alta hits. When the city begins to flood sirens
will sound warning residents and businesses. If you
speak fluent Italian tune into news programs since the
floods the time of the flood begins and the time when
it will receed is usually on the spot.
Because Venice is on a lagoon, the water plays
a crucial role in transportation. The most popular way
to approach Venice is by boat or train.
By plane
The closest airport is the one near Mestre on the mainland,
an industrial city without much charm in itself, called
[http://www.veniceairport.it/?lan=en Marco Polo]. There
is another one in Treviso, its very small and at 40
Km of Venice. Both airports have bus connections with
Venice (Piazzale Roma). Marco Polo airport runs a free
shuttle bus to the Alilaguna water-bus jetty where 10
euros gets you a leisurely 1 hour boat trip to San Marco
via Murano, Lido and the Arsenale. Alternatively you
can travel in style (and much faster) by hiring one
of the speedy water-taxis for about 80 euros.
By train
Trains from the mainland run through Mestre and to
the Santa Lucia train station on the west side of Venice
(make sure you don't get confused with Venezia Mestre
which is the last stop on the mainland!). From here,
water buses (vaporetti) or water taxis can take you
to hotels or other locations on the islands.
By car
Is not a good option. Cars can arrive in Venice, but
are left on the parking at the entrance to the city
(Piazzale Roma or Tronchetto - Europe's largest car
park.) Car parking is expensive here and the tailbacks
can be quite large, an alternative is to use the car
parks on the mainland (terra ferma) and catch a vaporetto
or bus into Venice. A good idea is to park near the
Mestre railway station and catch a train to Venezia
S.Lucia; there are many trains, is very near (8-10 minutes)
is few expansive and Venezia S.Lucia is a good starting
point to visit Venezia.
By bus
The Piazzale Roma bus station is well served by vaporetti
and water-taxis.
By boat
Ships arrive at the Stazione Marittima which
is at the west end of the main islands, it is served
by vaporetti and water taxis.
Venice is a very walkable city, and the absence of
cars makes it - mostly - a pleasant experience. The
Rialtine islands - the 'main' part of Venice - are small
enough to walk from one end to the other in about an
hour.
If you want to get around a bit more quickly, there
are numerous vaporetti (water buses) and water taxis.
The vaporetti are generally the best way to get around,
even if the service route map changes frequently. If
you are going to be in Venice for a few days visiting,
it is a lot cheaper to get the vaporetti than to get
private water taxis. If you want to have a romantic
ride along the canals take a gondala ride.
ACTV runs the vaporetti and other public transport
services both in the lagoon and on the terra firma.
1 day, 3 day and 7 day Venice Cards are available, in
two variations (Blue and Orange). The basic Blue cards
provide unlimited travel on the ACTV travel services
(vaporetti, motoscafi and buses) and free use of the
AMAV staffed toilets. The Orange card also provides
free entrance to some of the museums (those covered
by the Museum Card). Note that neither card includes
the Alilaguna water-bus which serves Marco Polo airport
unles you pay a surcharge. Travel cards are extremely
useful since the basic fare for one vaporetto journey
is typically 3.50 euro whereas 1 day Blue cards cost
14 euro, 3 day costs 29 euro and 7 day 51 euro (prices
correct December 2004). There are cheaper 1 and 3 day
ACTV travel tickets available (10.50 euro and 22 euro)
but these are pure travel cards and offer no discounts
or other goodies (like a free map and case) which come
with the Venice Cards. Discounts on many of these cards
are available for the under 30's or by buying online,
it pays to look around.
Otherwise, take a walk! The city is not that big, and
you can walk from one end to the other in a few hours,
and along the way discover the marvelous art and architecture
around every corner.
Don't miss the Rialto Bridge, the Piazza San Marco, and one or both
of the Campaniles; San Marco and San Giorgio.
Check the monuments timetables, are very strict.
- Saint Mark's Basilica (Basilica di San Marco)
is located on Piazza San Marco and is one of the highlights
of a visit to Venice. As with most churches in Italy,
you must be dressed appropriately to be allowed in;
this means no short skirts or bare shoulders.
- The Peggy Guggenheim Museum located on the
Dorsoduro region of Venice, to the east of the Accademia
bridge, on the southern side of the Grand Canal, offers
a personal collection of modern art, collected by
Peggy Guggenheim. 10am-6pm We-Mo. Peggy was married
to modern artist Max Ernst, and funded a number of
his contemporaries. The gallery includes works by
Kandinsky, Tanguy, Duchamp, Pollock and Mondrian.
€10 http://www.guggenheim-venice.it/
Ride a Vaporetto (Water Taxi) down the Main Canal right
before Sunset. The Vaporettos are inexpensive, but the
sites are priceless: amazing architecture, soft seaside
sunlight, and a fascinating parade of Venetian watercraft.
Take a Gondola if you can afford it, it's expensive,
but the Gondolero maybe can decrease the price
if you ask (but they can also decrease the time...). Make
sure you reach an agreement on price and time before you
start!
If you are looking for something to do, you can always
SHOP. Venice is full of little stores in every corner
and crevice. The commonest local specialities are Carnavale
masks, glass, and marbled paper. On Murano you can go
see glass-making demonstrations! While going through
Venice you need to take in the beauty of it all. Walk
through the alley ways, and take the water taxi to different
parts of the island, sometimes at night you can just
go sit in a main area and watch people and tourists.
It is wonderful. There are many museums and churchs
that are around the city that allow tourists to go in
a visit. They are a good thing to keep you busy throughtout
your visit.
Many times a week, there are musical concerts featuring
music of the composers who called Venice home. Especially
popular are performances of Vivaldi's The Four Seasons.
What better experience than listening to the music in
the same halls where Vivaldi himself visited.
There are a couple of (strategically placed) outside
mini-stages - One across the Duke's Palace and another
half way on the right hand side of the sourvenier's
strip (walking back to the Train Station, Catedral at
your back)
Anyone is welcome to sit down and enjoy (no need to
consume anything) Great atmosphere (and live music)
while looking at the zillions of pigeons being feed
by visitors that want that 'special picture taken'
If lucky you could have a glance at an outside wedding
ceremony (as I did) only in Venice!!!
Venice still has some residents who work in non-tourism
industries, but these are quite few today.
The city is well known for its artisans and artwork.
Visitors are drawn to its glasswork and its decorative
Carnival masks that are a signature Venetian product.
Watch out also for the hand-made paper and the exquisite
miniature buildings made by Moro (watch out for fakes !!
Moro "signs" his on the back.
Venice is packed with wonderful restaurants, featuring
cuisine of the Veneto. Specialties include polenta,
made of corn meal; risotto with cuttlefish ink sauce.
One of Venice's trademark foods is cuttlefish and its
ink. This intense black ink serves as a sauce and ingredient
for polenta (corn meal), risotto (rice), and pasta.
These dishes are normally indicated by the Italian words
"nella seppia" (in cuttlefish), "alla seppia" (in the
style of cuttlefish), or "nero di seppia," (black of
the cuttlefish). For example Polenta Nella Seppia is
fried corn meal with the black ink of a cuttle fish.
Despite the intensity in color, the ink has a surprisingly
mild taste.
Be careful when the prices are in a weight basis (typically
100g). One dish can easily contain 400g of fish, meat,...
4 times the indicated price !
For fresh fruit (including chilled coconut!) watch
out for the street market stalls.
To save money at lunch, eat standing up. Prices usually
double as soon as you sit at a table.
Budget
Mid-range
- Osteria alla Botte, San Marco 5482, campo
San Bartolomeo, tel 520 9775 [1] . A bacaro not far from the main tourist area
of San Marco's square, but surprisingly quiet. Large
square pictures of seafood decorate the walls, and
friendly staff are swift and helpful. The dishes are
mainly seafood, and there is a good wine selection
provided. The prices are reasonable for Venice.
- La Bitta, Dorsudoro 2753A, calle lunga, san
Barnaba, tel 523 0531. This busy but friendly restaurant
is located in the more studenty area of Dorsudoro,
and attracts a mixture of locals and tourists. They
have some excellent Italian dishes, which are reflected
in the prices, plus they have a great selection of
wines. Meals served 6:30-11pm, closed in August.
Splurges
Da Fiore is a Michellin starred restaurant that serves
fish only.
Give a try on Spritz al Aperol, "La botte" close to
Rialto is a good choice.
If you try the famous Grappa, be careful...
it's almost pure alcohol!
The Bellini was invented in Harry's bar in Venice.
It is a mix of white peach juice and Champagne.
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Hotels in Venice are expensive. Some of the smaller
hotels offer better rates.
Staying in a hotel on the Lido (15-20 minutes by Vaporetto)
is a cheaper alternative to staying in Venice proper.
The island of Lido also has a long beach where tourists
and Venetians alike go swimming during the summer months.
Some Italians at the train station may approach you
to find out if you need a room. While some of these
people may be con artists not all are. Some work for
family members and will be able to negotiate a price
for you. They will usually ask what your budget is and
will call a hotel or two to see if they owner will accept
the price you suggested.
Do not accept the offer if you think the situation
is suspect or think you may be exploited. Always get
a receipt for the transactions!
Budget
- Allogi La Gondola, Calle del Forno 180 (Follow
the canale grande, after crossing the big station
bridge turn west for 150 meters). €20.
- Hotel CaSa Linger, Fondamtenta S.Antonin
castello 3541. €22-40 per person/night.
Mid-range
- Locando Orseola, [2]. Located only a 3 minutes walk from St. Peter's Square,
this Venice hotel, a very popular 12 room guest house,
is lovingly operated by a multi-lingual Venitian family
who offer impeccable concierge service. Room rates
are generally €150 to €200, which is actually quite
reasonable for its central location.
- Domus Ciliota, Calle delle Muneghe - S. Marco,
[3]. Just a 5-10 minute walk from San Marco's Square, this
is a good base for exploring Venice. The hotel has
over fifty clean, basic, air-conditioned rooms all
with shower and WC. The reception is English speaking
and is open 24 hours. There is an area for leaving
baggage after you've checked out. Single rooms are
€70-85 and doubles are €100-110 including breakfast.
Splurge
- San Clemente Palace, Isola di San Clemente,
1 San Marco, [4] . This hotel is located on its own island and
makes a peaceful and quiet respite from the hoards
of tourists in venice. They provide a shuttle boat
between the hotel and San Marco square. The cheapest
room is €260, but the priciest is the 'Residential
Suite' at a mere €2800 a night.
Internet
Venice has several internet cafes, but these internet
cafes are much more expensive than the rest of Europe
with prices for an hour of access around €10. Wait until
you leave Venice to use the internet.
It's considered a safe city. One can walk down the
darkest alley in the middle of the night and feel completely
safe. You have to take the habitual travellers precautions,
however. Keep your valuables (like wallet and passport)
close to you because there are pickpockets, especially
in more crowded parts of the city.
Around the Venetian lagoon are other smaller islands,
which have since been deserted but are worth a visit.
There is also the Lido, which is a long narrow island
with more modern buildings, hosting a youth hostel and
a hotel.
- The Lido - Typical for its beaches
- Murano - Nearby Island with typical glass
- Burano - Nearby Island with typical textiles and
painted houses.
- San Lazzaro - Nearby Island with Armenian monastery
and impressive art collection, some world class pieces.
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