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It is not an uncommon mistake to point out Rio
as Brazil's capital, as in fact it was until 1960. Beaches
such as Copacabana and Ipanema, the Corcovado
statue, the stadium of Maracanã and Sugar
Loaf Mountain are all well-known sights of what
the inhabitants call the "wonderful city" (cidade
maravilhosa), and also the first images to pop up
in someone's mind, along with the Carnival celebration.
Sadly, most of people also know Rio for its violence
and crime. The drug lords and the slums or favelas
are the tip of very old social problems. The favelas
are areas of poor quality housing, slums usually located
on the city's many mountains.
The inhabitants of Rio, called cariocas, are
known for being easy-going and friendly, in contrast
to the more reserved citizens of other cities like São
Paulo.
Distance from some capitals:
- Belo Horizonte - 450 km (280 mi)
- Brasília - 1160 km (725 mi)
- Porto Alegre - 1550 km (970 mi)
- Salvador - 1730 km (1080 mi)
- Sao Paulo - 430 km (270 mi)
By plane
International and most domestic flights land at International
Airport Tom Jobim (also called Galeão, (21) 3398-5050,
fax:(21) 3393-2288), is 20 km away from the city
center and main hotels. Domestic airport Santos Dumont
(phone (21) 3814-7070, fax (21) 2533-2218) gets
flights from São Paulo and is located right in the city
center, by the Guanabara bay.
Air-conditioned bus service operated by Real[1] departs every 30 minutes and connects both airports
and further to Zona Sul (along the beachfront in Copacabana,
Ipanema, and Leblon) and Barra da Tijuca. A single ticket
costs R$ 6.
Taxis, considerably more expensive, are also a convenient
way to reach the tourist areas.
By train
Rio's glorious Central Station, or Central
do Brasil, made famous in a movie by the same name,
serves mostly local commuter lines, so it's unlikely
that you'll arrive through here. It's worth a visit
just to see it, though.
By bus
The long-distance bus depot, Rodoviária Novo Rio,
is located in the North Zone's São Cristovão neighborhood.
Taxis and coach buses can get you to the South Zone
in about fifteen minutes; local buses take a bit longer.
By car
Rio is connected by many roads to neighboring cities
and states, but access can be confusing as there are
insufficient traffic signs or indications of how to
get downtown.
By boat
Ferries (balsas) connect neighboring Niteroi
to Rio de Janeiro and arrive at Praça XV, in the city
center.
By taxi
A cab is one of the best ways to move around Rio. Most
of the tours will cost around R$15 (US$5), and the car
can usually hold four people. You can ask a cab for
a city tour, and arrange a fixed price (maybe around
US$20).
By car
Traffic within some parts of Rio can be daunting, but
a car may be the best way to reach distant beaches like
Grumari, and that can be an extra adventure. In Rio,
most road signals are placed after the curve you were
supposed to take, and do not help unless you already
know how to go there. Buy a map, and have fun.
By bus
Buses are a cheap and nice way to get around by day.
By night they are more scarce but you can ride them
anyway. Buses usually cost R$ 1.80 (US$ 0.75), but some
buses with air conditioning charge higher fares.
Bus lines with a * means that this bus has a variant.
It means that there may be a bus with the same name,
same number, same origin, even same destination but
with a complete different tour. Weird ain't it? Ask
the driver, he won't mind.
By subway
The Metrô Rio subway system
takes you to the main places, from Copacabana to downtown.
The air-conditioned subway is clean, comfortable, and
quick, but there are not many stations (especially in
Zona Sul), and it closes after midnight. There are two
main lines. Line 1 has service to Copacabana, the Saara
district, and much of Downtown, as well as Tijuca, where
you can visit Corcovado. Line 2 stops at the zoo, soccer
stadium, and State University. The two lines intersect
at Estácio.
Beaches
Rio's beaches are undoubtedly one of the main reasons
why travellers visit the city. Copacabana and Ipanema
are by far the most famous, but there are many others,
each with a distinct character. Some of the most noticeable
are:
- Flamengo
- Botafogo
- Leme
- Copacabana
- Arpoador
- Ipanema
- Leblon
- São Conrado
- Barra da Tijuca
- Recreio dos Bandeirantes
- Grumari
Sights
- Corcovado
- Pão de Açúcar
- Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas
Buildings
- Mosteiro de São Bento (Saint Benedict's Monastery)
(1663)
- São Francisco da Penitência church (1773)
- Biblioteca Nacional (National Library) (1910)
- Theatro Municipal (1909)
- Ilha Fiscal Palace (1889)
- Lapa Aqueduct (1750)
Museums
- Museu Nacional
- Museu Histórico Nacional
- Museu Nacional de Belas Artes
- MAM - Museum of Modern Art
- Museu da República
- Museu do Índio (Museum of the Indian)
Parks
Parque Lage and Corcovado
- Jardim Botânico
- Parque Lage
- Parque do Flamengo
- Parque Guinle
- Campo de Santana
- Quinta da Boa Vista
Carnival
Still the greatest reason for visiting Rio seems to
be the Carnival. This highly advertised party
lasts for almost two weeks and it is well known for
the escolas de samba (samba schools) that parade
in Centro, on a gigantic structure called Sambódromo
(Sambadrome). During Carnival, Rio has much more to
offer though, with the blocos de rua, that parades
on the streets. There are now hundreds of these street
"samba blocks", that parade almost in every neighborhood,
especially in Centro and the South Zone, gathering thousands
of people. Some are very famous, and there's not one
carioca that has not heard of "Carmelitas", "Suvaco
de Cristo", "Escravos da Mauá" or "Simpatia É Quase
Amor".
The rest of the year, samba shows are popular with
tourists, and are held at several venues like Plataforma
and Scala. These are expensive and not really
representative of Brazilian culture, they present a
lot of almost naked women and bad musicians, a tourist
trap. Much more interesting and genuine, though, are
the night practice sessions held by the various samba
schools in the months leading up to Carnival. You will
find only a small number of tourists here, and I promise
you will be served the best caipirinhas of your trip!
These go on into the wee hours of the morning, with
the fun really only starting at 1-2 A.M. A good cab
driver should be able to hook you up, and cabs will
be available to take you back when you are samba-ed
out. Salgueiro and Mangueira are good choices, as they
are two of the larger samba schools, and are located
relatively close to the tourist areas in a fairly safe
area.
Note that a change is afoot that may make this genuine
experience a thing of the past (or more convenient,
depending on your viewpoint) for all but the most savvy
tourists. The local government is in the process of
building a complex of buildings where many of the samba
schools are expected to move their practice halls and
float-construction facilities from the gritty warehouses
typically located in or near their home favelas. One
can expect many more tourists, and shows made-up for
the tourists as the tourist bureau milks this facility
for all it's worth year-round.
Music
Rio was the cradle of three of Brazil most important
musical genres: samba, choro, and bossa nova. In the
last years, there was a boom of traditional samba and
choro venues. A lot of them are in the downtown district
of Lapa. There are good and cheap nightlife options,
where you will see some of the best musicians of the
country. Any of the city newspaper will give you tips
where are the best shows.
If you're not that of an anthropological type of tourist,
you can check out the same papers for tips on other
kinds of music. Being a big city, Rio has big and small
clubs that play almost every kind of music. The major
mainstream clubs mostly play whatever's on the Radio
- which is usually whatever's on the USA radios and
the MTv - but the underground scene has a lot to offer
on Rock, E-Music, Rap and such. The best way to find
out about those are the flyers handed or left on hostels,
cinema and theater lobbies, nightclub lines, etc.
Always bargain, this can lower prices considerably.
But naturally merchants won't bargain unless you ask,
especially if you are clearly a tourist. To tourists,
can easily be overpriced by a factor of 10 especially
in highly informal markets such as Saara or on the beach.
- A typical Brazilian hammock shouldn't be more than
R$20-30 (US$7-10) but they can sell for up to US$150.
- A beer on the beach should cost around R$3.00 (US$1.00)
- A caipirinha can be had for the same price (around
R$3.00 or US$1.00) and you get a great show as the
ingredients are produced from a cooler and lime slices
muddled before you eyes
- You can get coconut water for R$1.50 (US$0.50)
- For trinkets, your best bet is the "hippie fair"
in Praça General Osório in Ipanema every Sunday.
- For a sterile norteamericano-style shopping
experience, head to the malls in Barra da Tijuca.
Great bargains can be had on Brazilian-made clothing,
as well as some European imports. Imported electronics
are insanely expensive due to protective import duties.
For example, you will find digital cameras sell for
about twice what they sell for in the U.S.
Store managers in Rio often speak some English, as
this gains employees an almost-automatic promotion.
But "some" can be very little, so it is useful to learn
at least some very basic Portuguese. Just knowing basic
greetings, numbers, and how to ask directions and prices
will get you at least a "B" for effort, and despite
finding that store clerks may know more English than
you Portuguese, it can still come in handy to know a
bit of the language. Spanish is likely to do you much
less good than you may think, but if you know Italian,
you may find it of more use than you might expect. Don't
be afraid to resort to writing numbers, pictures, or
resorting to pantomime. (I had a hilarious incident
where I was trying to ask for a shirt with a picture
of a bird, and instead got directions to the airport.)
Clerks will often tap out prices for you on a calculator.
Rio de Janeiro lacks little in choice when it comes
to food - you can probably find something to fit any
craving.
Don´t miss Brazil's national dish, feijoada!
For connoisseurs of meat, nothing beats a good rodizio.
- Confeitaria Colombo [2] (Rua Gonçalves Dias, 32, Centro) dates
back to 1894 and has a dazzling tea room and arguably
the best sweets and other delicacies in town.
- Marius [3] has arguably the best rodizio in town.
- Porcão [4] and Carretão [5] has good and cheap(er) rodizio.
- Botequim (pronounced 'boo-chi-KEEM') - These
quite unpretentious bars with simple appetizers and
lots of ice-cold chope (draft beer) are everywhere
and are almost inseparable from the carioca
lifestyle. Try Bracarense (85, José Linhares street,
Leblon), one of the most traditional.
- Juice bars - Of particular note for an often
hot and muggy city are the refreshing juice bars,
found on nearly every corner in the city. Choose from
dozens of freshly squeezed fruit juices - mix two
or three fruits together or simply try the freshly
squeezed orange juice.
- Caipirinha
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While Rio's fancy hotels are along the beaches of Ipanema
and Copacabana, there are lots of small and cheap, but
clean, hotels around Flamengo and Catete. Rio also has
a large selection of apart-hotels, which provide apartment-style
accommodations with kitchen facilities.
The street in front of the strip of tourist hotels
in Copacabana can be seedy, due to both garishly-dressed
tourists, and a few opportunistic locals ready to take
advantage of them. The apart-hotels in Ipanema are a
much more pleasant alternative, being both better appointed
and in a nicer neighborhood with fewer tourists.
Private condominium apartments can also be rented short-term
at excellent rates, and can be found on the Internet.
This is probably a preferable means of finding one of
these than the notes that will be passed to you by anonymous
persons on the street.
Prices for most accommodation can more than triple
during New Year's and Carnival.
Budget
If hostel life is more your style, they are easy to
find in Rio. The more expensive ones boast locations
that are short walking distance to either Ipanema or
Copacabana beach, however if you prefer to stay in Lapa,
Botafogo or another area, there are many options.
- If staying in the favela is your fancy, you might
want to check out the newly openeded Pousada Favelinha
[6] in Laranjeiras/Santa Teresa.
Splurge
- If you don't mind to pay a bit more it's very interesting
to stay at Copacabana Palace Hotel [7] in Copacabana beach. Dating back to 1923, it's
the most famous hotel in the city where lot of famous
people have been guested.
- Hotéis Othon [8] has eight locations in
Rio.
In order to fully enjoy your trip the traveller should
pay attention to simple things. Avoid the downtown area,
especially Saara, after dark. Although downtown
is a relatively safe place during the day, after dark
all the people who work there have already gone home.
If you are going to a theater or a show, it's alright.
But do not wander in those dark streets by night. Go
to Copacabana beach, all lighted and policed during
the night, though it's not entirely safe for tourists
that look obviously like tourists at any time.
Avoid wearing jewelry or other signs of wealth if possible
as these attract attention. Thieves have been known
to run past targets and tear off necklaces, rings, and
earrings without stopping. Earrings are particularly
dangerous as tearing them off often harms the owner.
Favelas are a big problem in Rio. These slums grew
from being impoverished neighborhoods but are now large
areas ruled by drug dealers. If you want to keep your
nice vision of Rio, you don't need to go there. However,
they are amazingly huge, and a new experience for some--
there are some travel agencies who take tourists on
tours there. If you want to go, pay one of those agencies.
Never, never go to a favela by yourself, or with a unknown
guide. The tour operators have "peace treaties" with
the local drug dealers. If you don't have one, you'll
be in trouble, maybe lethal.
At night, especially after traffic has died-down you
may hear what sounds like explosions. This is not as
menacing as it sounds, though it is still indicative
of somebody up to no good. These are often firecrackers
set-off as signals in the favelas. It might mean that
a drug shipment has arrived and in in-transit, or that
the police are making a raid into the favela. It is
a signal to gang operatives who act as lookouts and
surrogate police to be extra-vigilant.
Some drivers in Rio are certifiably insane, and seem
to stop for nothing. In particular, they will go whizzing
around corners without even slowing down. The crosswalks
are located some considerable distance from corners
for a good reason. For your safety, cross at the crosswalks
- not closer to the corner - and watch for cars regardless
of traffic lights.
- Niteroi - The ferry between Rio and Niteroi, a city
across the bay, is a pleasant and cheap trip. There
are a couple of kinds of boats, ranging from very
cheap and slow to fairly cheap and fast. Niteroi does
not have many tourist attractions, but it does have
a wonderful unique view of Rio and an intriguing contemporary
art museum, which looks like a flying saucer jutting
out over the sea. Also, it has one of state's the
most beautiful beaches, Itacoatiara, which can be
reached by the bus numbered 38.
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