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After 1989 many foreigners, especially young people,
have moved to to Prague.
Prague may be beautiful, but pollution often hovers
over the city thanks to its location in the Vltava River
basin. Many Praguers have a small cottage (which can
range from a shack barely large enough for garden utensils
to an elaborate, multistory dwelling) outside the city.
There they can escape for some fresh air and country
pursuits such as mushroom hunting and gardening. These
cottages, called chatas, are treasured both as getaways
and ongoing projects. Each reflects its owners' character,
as most of them were built by unorthodox methods. There
were no Home Depots under communism. Chata owners used
the typically Czech "it's who you know" chain
of supply to scrounge materials and services. This barter
system worked extremely well, and still does today.
Chaty (pl. of chata) are also sometimes used as primary
residences by Czechs who rent out their city-center
apartments for enormous profit to foreigners who can
afford to pay inflated rent.
By plane
The international airport Ruzyne (phone +420 220 111 111, +420 296 661 111) is
in the north of Prague. There are many cheap direct
flights operated by Easyjet and BMIbaby from UK and
by SmartWings from continental Europe and Dublin.
Getting into the city from the airport: The
airport is located about 20 kilometers outside the city
center. It generally takes 30 to 50 minutes to get there.
- By taxi: The most comfortable method to reach the
city will cost about 700 Kc. Ask for a receipt when
you arrive. Make sure you ask how much it will cost
before commencing your journey. Avoid taxis without
illuminated signs on the car roof.
- By Cedaz bus: (phone 2011 4286) These buses operate
from 5:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. every half hour. They
will take you past the subway station Dejvická and
into the city center to the námestí Republiky. Fares
are about 90 Kc per person. The same company's minibuses
run a shared-ride transfer service direct to your
hotel, delivering groups of 1-4 passsengers for 480
CZK.
- By city bus and subway: This is the cheapest way
to get into the city. A ticket valid for 75 minutes
costs 20 CZK. Bus no. 119 takes you to the subway
station Dejvická, then on to the city center by subway
line A. Bus no. 100 brings you to subway station Zlicín
(metro B).
By train
Prague has two international train stations: Hlavní
nádraží (central station, abbreviated Praha hl.n.);
and Praha Holešovice (Holešovice station).
Eurocity trains connect Prague to Berlin, Wien and
Budapest. It is a very comfortable way of travel, but
not as quick as used in other countries - Eurocity has
average speed about 120kmph only, because Czech railroad
network is not suitable for higher speeds. From Berlin,
a train reaches Prague in 5 1/2 hours, from Wien (Vienna)
in 4 1/2 hours and from Budapest in 6 1/2 hours. The
trainline from Berlin to Prague passes through the Erzgebirge
mountains, and for a couple of hours the passengers
are treated to a series of beautiful alpine river valleys,
surrounded by rocky escarpments and mountains.
Train connection from western countries (France, England)
is complicated because of an inconvenient layout of
German railroads (they lead mainly from north to south,
with no direct connections from east to west) - you
have to change frequently, for example to Paris you
have to change at least two or three times and it takes
more than 13 hours.
By car
Prague has highway connection from five major directions.
Unfortunately, the highway network in Czech republic
is quite incomplete and some highways are old and in
bad condition. Thus, the highway connection from Prague
to border of Czech Republic is available only in two
directions - southeast and southwest. Southwestern highway
(number D5, international E50) leads through Pilsen
(Plzen) to Germany. There is still a small incomplete
part on the German side of the border, but it is only
about 20 km. Not counting this small part, the D5 highway
is connected to German highway network. Riding from
state border to Prague takes about an hour and half
(its 160 km only). Southeastern highway (number D1)
is Czech oldest and most used highway (but it is in
good condition). It leads through Brno to Bratislava
in Slovakia. It offers a good connection to Vienna,
Budapest and all traffic from east. You have to count
with more than two hours, it is more than 250km. From
northwest you can take highway D8 (E55), but it is not
complete to German border, it ends now at Lovosice (about
60km from Prague). When you go from northern Germany
(Dresden, Berlin, Leipzig), you have to take state road
E55, which is sometimes quite overcrowded. From northeast
you can take highway R10 - E65 (it is not highway by
parameters, only motorway, but it has four lanes and
there is no major difference to highway). It leads from
Liberec through Turnov. I don't think it is an important
access direction, because there are no major cities
in this directions (Zittau in Germany, some cities in
Poland), but it offers a good connection to Czech mountains
Jizerské hory and Krkonoše (Riesengebirge) with best
Czech skiing resorts. From east you can take D11 (E67),
which is only 40km long and is in ugly condition. It
directs to Poland.
The Czech highways are under development (D8 and D11
are prolongated, city by-pass of Pilsen is nearly finished
on D5) so thing may get better. There are only seldom
traffic jams on Czech highways, with the exception of
D1 near Prague (and near Brno too) - not counting work
on the road, which means a certainly blocked road.
When you get to Prague, things are getting worse. Prague
suffers from a heavy traffic and in working days the
main streets are one big traffic jam. Moreover, Prague
still doesn't have complete highway outer circuit. It
is really good idea to use the P+R (park and ride) parking
places, where you can park your car for a very small
fee and use the public transport. The P+Rs are situated
near all highways and are well marked.
By bus
The main bus station for international busses in Prague
is Florenc, Križíkova (metro lines B and C). It is located
east of the city center.
Eurolines connects Prague to major European cities,
some of them depart from Nádraží Holešovice (metro C)
but the majority leave from the main bus terminal at
Florence (also metro C).
Public transportation is very convenient in most of
the areas visitors are likely to frequent. There are
three main subway lines (Czech: metro), and numerous
bus and tram (streetcar) lines. Purchase 75 minutes
transfer for 20 CZK ticket at any tobacco shop or 24-hours,
3-days or 7-days tickets at ticket offices in some metro
stations; date stamp this the first time you ride. Tickets
are not checked upon boarding, but undercover inspectors
frequently make the rounds asking to see your ticket.
Even though freeriding seems easy in Prague, you should
invest in the cheap ticket; staying more than two days
in Prague will guarantee that you will be checked.
Public transport continues at night in a convenient
way. Night trams or night buses (00:00 to 5:00 AM) come
usally every 30 minutes. Every 15 minutes they are leaving
some night trams central exchange station in the centre
of Prague called Lazarská. You can also easily change
the tram lines here.
Prague Public Transit
Prague travel
- The Old Town Square in the Old Town.
- The Astronomical Clock in the Old Town.
Currently being cleaned and repaired until early 2006.
- The Golden Lane in the Castle district.
- The Pinkas Synagogue in the Jewish Town.
- The Old Jewish Cemetery in the Jewish Town.
- St Agnes's Convent in the Old Town.
- Hvezda Summer Palace in the West.
- Municipal Hall in the Old Town.
- The Zizkov Television Tower in the East.
- The Petrínská
rozhledna , an old observation tower, unfortunately
without elevator
Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge (Czech: Karluv most) stretches
across the Vltava River between the Lesser Town and
the edge of Old Town's central shopping district. The
current incarnation of the bridge was built by Charles
IV's imperial architect Petr Parler, who is also known
for his work on St Vitus Cathedral. It replaced previous
Judith Bridge, destroyed by a flood.
Charles Bridge has outlived floods, disasters and heavy
traffic for 600 years. It even allowed car traffic earlier
in the 20th century! It's a mystery how the bridge has
survived so long - one ongoing myth says eggs were mixed
into the mortar when it was built. If you believe in
supernatural protection, maybe the sword of Bruncvik
explains the bridge's miraculous strength. Like the
English Arthurian legends, it is said Bruncvik's sword
(supposedly hidden inside the bridge) will make itself
available in the country's darkest hour, rising to its
defense.
From an artistic perspective, the most notable feature
of the bridge is the groups of statuary lining either
side. Scenes from Bible and popular saints are included,
such as St Jan Nepomuk and St Luitgard. Nepomuk has
two legends associated with him: first, if you place
five fingers in the gilded stars at the Charles Bridge
statue's base and make a wish, not only will your wish
come true, but you are guaranteed to return to Prague.
Second, you may wonder why you see a small picture of
a tongue in association with Nepomuk. Supposedly, acting
as the queen's religious confessor, Nepomuk refused
to repeat something she had told him in confidence to
King Wenceslas IV, her husband. The unfortunate prelate
was tortured, beaten and thrown from the bridge with
hands tied. Some time later, during a severe drought,
the river level went down enough to find Nepomuk's body.
It was decomposed, as one would expect, but with one
exception: his tongue was perfectly preserved, symbolizing
his refusal to break the seal of the confessional.
Going Out
- Reduta Jazz Club is a popular venue with
a distinguished history - Bill Clinton visited here
on his first trip to post-Communist Prague. Live Jazz
every night.
Tours
- Authorized Guides of Prague, Senovazne nam.
23 - D302, Praha 1, ph +420 776868770, Web. Tourist guides providing
private sightseeing tours in various languages. They
find a tour guide according to needs of the visitors.
The language, time, meeting place and lenght depend
on the decision of the clients. As the tours are tailor-made,
it is recommended to contact them at least one day
in advance. They also arrange other related travel
services such as transportation, restaurant bookings,
cruise tickets etc.
- Prague Travel Ltd, Vinohradska 28, Praha
2. ph 222 516 064 or 777 070 784. fax 271 742 622.
email praguetravel@praguetravel.cz. Web . Prague Travel organises several daily walking
tours of Prague with different themes and an English
speaking guide. All the tours meet at their marked
orange umbrella by the Astronomical Clock in the Old
Town, and you can buy tickets on the spot.
Popular pastimes
Ice hockey is hugely popular in Prague, thanks
to the amazing Czech national team. During communism,
hockey was closely related to politics. When the Czechs
beat the Russians in the 1971 for the world title, it
was national fest. Many Czech hockey and tennis players
have gone on to international fame.
Drinking beer is practically a sport among men.
Mushroom hunting is very common during the fall,
and some great dishes show up on menus across the country
as a result. Renovating the family chata (see Did You
Know? below) and growing vegetables on its surrounding
land is a popular summer pastime.
Lunch is traditionally the main meal. If you try the
typical Czech food, the main course will usually consist
of pork or beef. Fish is not so popular, yet it can
be found it in most restaurants by now. Side dishes
are e. g. fries or dumplings. Typical desserts are fruit
dumplings, crępes or ice cream.
It is important to either make a reservation or decide
to eat earlier when restaurants are not so crowded.
The tip should be about 10 to 15% - in cheaper restaurants
or pubs it will do to simply round up the bill or leave
a few extra coins if you are cheap. If not leave at
least 20 to 40 Kcz or 10 to 20 EUro, that is customary.
Taxes are always included in the price (by law).
If you're on the look out for fast food, you
won't be able to move without tripping over street vendors
serving Czech style hot dogs and mulled wine
in the Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square (New Town).
If you're after western-style fast food, the major chains
also have a large presence in Wenceslas Square and the
area immediately around it.
The Old Town Square also has a lot of sit down restaurants
that let you sit outside in the square.
- Prague Experience.com - list of restraunts
[1]
U Jednoho Pokoje
'U Jednoho Pokoje' is Czech for 'At the one room' which
is a summary of what this restaurant is. The restaurant
was started by a French chef in a semi-abandoned apartment
in the vicinity of I.P. Pavlova. With a little painting,
scrubbing and mopping the room was fixed up. All of
the furnishing for the restaurant (tables, chairs, etc.)
are items that have been salvaged and restored. To complete
the decorations, friends and supporters lent their art
to UJednohoPokoje. Dinners are by appointment
only, everything is done by the owner himself (greeting,
cooking, pouring and serving). The food is superb, the
prices are a bit more than average (250kc) by Prague
standards but for a three course meal it's nothing unreasonable.
If you want more info check out http://www.ujednohopokoje.cz/
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Pubs abound throughout Prague, and indeed are an
important part of local culture. A green sign hanging
outside an establishment indicates excellent Czech
beer is to be had inside. Most pubs serve only a
small selection of beers. Locals seldom pay more
than 25 crowns for a half liter glass, while tourist
traps often charge 50 crowns or more.
See important Czech beer-related information at
the Czech Republic page.
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Reservations: It is advisable to make a reservation.
Peak season is from April to October. Major influx of
visitors can be expected also around New Year.
Prices: Prices for accommodation can be up to
twice as high in the peak season. Normally, tax and
breakfast are included.
Budget
If you are looking for budget accommodation, check
out one of the Prague hostels , or just go to Hlavni Nadrazi and take a private
sleeping place with a person you find trustworthy (price
will be approx the same), as some people rent part of
their apartments to tourists to earn a little extra
money.
Mid-range
Mid-range accommodation can be found in most of the
Praha 1 quarters: check in particular the east bank:
Jewish Town, Old Town and New Town.
Be careful of the taxi drivers, particularly from the
train station. Some of them delight in overcharging
tourists. Usually it's better to call a radio-cab.
Be also aware of your belongings when using crowded
street-cars in the centre because of the pickpocket
gangs. Especially dangerous in this aspect are lines
22 and 23.
Only change money at a trustworthy place. As soon as
you arrive there will be people trying to get you to
exchange money with them. The money they'll give you
is Slovakian or Romanian currency which is worth much
less. Never change money in the streets.
Be cautious when people offer you great deals on accommodations.
Often these are freelance agents who don't actually
own the rooms they're offering. It's a good idea to
give the payment for the room directly to the owner
of the room, and not to the agent.
Prague is a relatively safe town, just be sensible
and alert!
Many people who come to Prague and the Czech
Republic never take advantage of the country's excellent
inter-city bus and train network. Buses and trains are
frequent and quite inexpensive and can get you to even
the smallest village.
How to get out
All information for buses and trains is available on
the web (in English and German) at http://www.vlak-bus.cz/JRCis.asp?tt=c&cl=E5 . Don't be initimdated about buying tickets even
if you don't know the language, most bus and train terminal
employees can speak a few phrases in English. Be sure
and GET OUT OF PRAGUE, there is a wealth of things
to see.
Buses Almost all buses leave from either the
city's main bus terminal at the Florenc metro stop (red
metro line C) or from Andel metro stop (yellow metro
line B), the station is 200 meters south of the metro
stop.
Trains Almost all train's leave from either
Nádraží Holešovice, Hlavní nádraží (both red metro line
C stops). If you are going to Karlstejn you will have
to take a train
Practically every major European city on the continent
can be reached by bus or train from Prague.
Where to go
For just a small selection of places off the beaten
path:
- Novosedly - Take a horseback trip through the vineyards
of Moravia
- Písek - Beautiful South Bohemian town with the country's
oldest bridge.
- Vyšší Brod - Take a three day canoe trip from the
Sumava mountains through Ceský Krumlov
- Výsocany - A great mountain area for hiking, located
halfway between Prague and Brno
- Beroun - Small city located on the way to Plzen,
follow the Beroun river north to some beautiful villages.
- Karlštejn castle and the holy cave monastery - Hiking
trip to the famous castle as well as an off the beaten
track monastery.
- Konopište - Archduke Franz Ferdinand's Castle located
40km South of Prague
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